I watched the last game of the 2025 Série B season at home, alone, which is the coward’s way to watch football and the only…
Where a Club Like Remo Actually Makes Money
Every year somebody with a spreadsheet discovers that a regional football club runs on thin margins and writes about it as a scandal. It is…
When the TV Money Finally Lands
On a Thursday afternoon in Marco, the news reached the bar before it reached the newspapers. A woman at the next table looked at her…
The Fans Who Make a Living on Matchday
There is a man outside Baenão who has been selling flags on the same corner for as long as I have been going. He knows…
Baenão, the Little Ground in Marco
The Estádio Evandro Almeida holds something like fourteen thousand people, which by the standards of Brazilian top-flight football is the size of a large high…
What We Eat on Matchday in Belém
People arrive at the ground hungry here. That is the first thing to understand about football in the north. The food is half the day….
What the Re-Pa Feels Like From Inside Belém
The walk to the ground is where the day starts, and it starts earlier than the kickoff suggests. You feel the Re-Pa in your legs…
The Rowing Club That Became King of the Amazon
The fifth of February is the club’s birthday, and every year the same photograph does the rounds: young men in white beside a wooden boat,…